Kogin (koginzashi) is a folk craft originating in the Tsugaru district of Aomori prefecture in Northern Japan. About 300 years ago, farmers were forced into poverty by feudal laws which also prevented them from wearing comfortable, cotton clothing. Instead, they relied on linen and hemp, which was rough to the touch, and not enough to protect against the harsh winter weather. By using contrasting coloured threads and counting the holes in the cloth, geometric patterns can be created in stitch, with the added benefit of providing warmth and protection.
Nowadays, kogin has been revived as an easy to learn form of Japanese embroidery. Even a beginner can stitch a beautiful piece of work in a short space of time. There are also modern patterns, as well as a plethora of fabric and thread colours available, and of course the paper patterns can be reused indefinitely which enables you to create stunning work in infinite variations.
Nowadays, kogin has been revived as an easy to learn form of Japanese embroidery. Even a beginner can stitch a beautiful piece of work in a short space of time. There are also modern patterns, as well as a plethora of fabric and thread colours available, and of course the paper patterns can be reused indefinitely which enables you to create stunning work in infinite variations.
Kogin Kits
Kogin kits are easy to follow, as they contain a paper chart showing how to stitch the design. Many people find this similar to cross stitch, except kogin is always worked horizontally across the rows, and each stitch counts an odd number of fabric threads. You begin by folding your fabric into quarters (to find the centre), then stitch the centre line of the pattern, starting from the middle. It is crucial to make sure this foundation row is absolutely correct, otherwise the whole piece might not be right.
Continue working across each row, making sure to leave a tiny amount of excess thread at the end of each row so the fabric does not pull too tight. Weave the ends of the thread by turning the piece over and stitching back across a few stitches, leaving a small loop where you turned back.
Once you've stitched half of the design, turn your work round and stitch the other half. The finished work can be made into coasters, key rings, bookmarks, bags, purses, placemats...
Continue working across each row, making sure to leave a tiny amount of excess thread at the end of each row so the fabric does not pull too tight. Weave the ends of the thread by turning the piece over and stitching back across a few stitches, leaving a small loop where you turned back.
Once you've stitched half of the design, turn your work round and stitch the other half. The finished work can be made into coasters, key rings, bookmarks, bags, purses, placemats...
Instruction Videos
These videos are in Japanese, and give an excellent visual tutorial on kogin. Reproduced with permission from Olympus.
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